Saturday, May 30, 2009

Mole National Park

Grrrr I just spent 20 minutes writing a giant post which was deleted as my computer decided to shut down after loading forever. Typical African connection.

So since my last post we have explored Kumasi a little bit, which is quite a lovely place. We went to the Ashanti Palace which has been transformed into a museum, and it was so neat to see as I have learnt quite a bit about the Ashanti's in previous courses. We basically lazed around a little and tried to get laundry done, which was another fiasco in itself. Luckily none of my things were "lost" but some of the others were missing things. I think from now on I will do my own laundry.

I am now in Mole National Park in Ghana in the upper northern region of the country in more of a guinea savanna climate than the rainforest climate we have been in. It is basically a gaming reserve, so we have actually been able to see some vertebrates and pay attention to things other than insects so it has been a nice change of pace. I am quite surprised there is internet up here, as I cannot even get phone reception (with Vodafone, one of the local carriers). It is slow internet and hasn't been working at all, but at least I am on now!

We arrived here May 28 after a horrendous 9 hours of driving on roads that I don't think were roads at all. They were like a dried up riverbed, with mounds and huge crevices and even swamps everywhere, equalling a very carsick Krystle. When I wasn't too nauceous to open my eyes I was nearly crying with fear. Our driver is a man who is not afraid of anything apparently, but then again he drives just the same as the other Ghanaians on the road. Once we arrived here from Kumasi I nearly kissed the ground out of joy to still be alive. The drive did have its magical moments as we drove through tiny villages and children were delighted to see us. It was the most precious thing... every child we drove by would wave frantically, light up, and smile like no tomorrow. Even the hardest of hearts would have been melted by that.

We took the night off after arrival to get settled into our rooms, which were something else entirely. Two other girls and myself were placed together, and headed for our room. We were greeted by a slew of dead cockraoches, no AC and a room that looked as though it had been boarded off for years. We were frightened. Then we found out there was a mistake and were moved, thinking we would be in a decent room. Wrong. We were placed in a room smalled than the first, also with no AC, and a broken toilet. We had no cockroaches, but also no toilet, so it made for an interesting night when everyone had digestive upsets and the nearest washroom was a good few minutes walk away. There were giant beetles, winged termites, warthogs and about a million other insects around, and we were all exhausted. This was the first time I felt I was going to crack. Instead I gathered myself together and tried to make the best of it. Miraculously I slept fine and had a nice bucket shower in the morning.

Yesterday we set off for a morning safari/tour, which was walking. It was really interesting and exciting to see vertebrates ane be able to focus on something other than insects. We walked for about 2 hours (0700-0900) and saw babboons (also everywhere, including people's rooms), warthogs (same scenario as the babboons), forest elephants (which was pretty cool), cob (antelope) other monkeys (Pattis monkey and what I think was a Mona moneky, also a lemur I believe) and of course more interesting insects. After the walk we had free time!!! Actual time to ourselves was glorious. I finished an assignment that I handed in and took a swim in the pool, which was actually quite disgusting and filled with who knows what but really refreshing.

Then in the afternoon our luck changed. They informed us we were moving rooms, and moved across the compound to some rooms with AC and a TV (Ghanaian soap operas are wonderful haha) and was clean-ish. I was so happy I danced and sang and threw my arms up in the air.

With all the excitement of the day I forgot to put sunscreen on my back, and have now found myself with a sunburn. It is not too bad, but is fairly uncomfortable. I am going to have to watch it and make sure to not burn on top of a burn.

At 1600 we had a lecture on sampling populations (overlooking the watering hole and watching some migrating water buffalo) and then at 1730 we had dinner. We have been heading out at night spotlighting (looking for eyeshine) so we did that again last night, and saw a huge grey spotted owl, the largest owl I have ever seen. It was fantastic.

Amanda and I headed to bed, watched some soaps and fell asleep. We slept in this morning and it was pretty awesome. We are getting ready to head to Wechiau today, which apparently is another 3 hours drive, but I think it will end up taking 6 or so. It's pretty interesting asking your prof to stop the van so you can pee in the bushes. Definately not something I have done before.

All in all it has been a great time so far. There is starting to be a little bickering, but nothing serious and I ampretty surprised that 14 students can get along this well. I am finding that my patience level is growing, as to write this has taken me nearly an hour with connection speed and other probelms. I am bitten by many things all over, and am itchy all the time. I am sick and sunburnt but I feel exhilirated and excited for what is to come.

I think I will sign off now and will try to post another blog after Wechiau, which will probably be in about a week. I am looking forward to canoeing on the black volta river and seeing the hippos in their natural habitat, and hopefully not being eaten or forced to swim because they bit my canoe in half (has been done in previous years). We apparently sleep on the roof or the hippo deck as it is too hot inside to sleep, but how we will set up our nets will be interesting. I am open to try anything, so sleeping on the roof doesn't scare me. I might have something different to say about it in my next blog, but as of right now I am excited for everything that will come in a place like Wechiau.

I am thinking of cutting my volunteering a week short as my VISA was not processed properly and I really don't want to risk being in the country illegally, so I think I will have it changed. I will probably spend the week in Germany as that is where my flight stops over, I may stay for a week or two and head around the country and end up in Dachau to see the concentration camps... who knows where I will end up, I am still thinking about it. ANyways, I will let you all know when I know.


All in all I am learning lots, enjoying myself, and making friends along the way. What could be better?

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Still alive...

Hello everyone!
Sorry I haven't been writing, but this is the first time I have had internet access since the last post.. we have been traipsing through the Ghanaian rain forest!
My time here so far has been amazing. I am starting to aclimatize a little better and the heat isn't bothering me too much, but my ankles are still a little swollen. I seem to have ballooned out upon arrival, probably with water retention. The temperature usually hovers around 30-35 degrees Celsius, but with 90-100% humidity the heat stress index (what the temp actually feels like) is about 45 degrees. It makes me so drowsy after meals that it's hard to stay awake!
So... where to start with my adventures thus far...
we spent the first two nights in the capital city Accra and then headed for Cape Coast and visited Elmina Castle, built in 1482 by the Portuguese for "trading" but eventually became a huge slave trade hub, with more than 60million people passing through its doors in the centuries it was up and running. That was a really big thing for me, I have wanted to see something like this for a long long time, and it was a great experience. I had to stray from the group a bit for that one, as I really felt that I could cry at any moment. The floors have a stench so real and so saddening you can't help but think at least 1000 people died in the spot you are standing at that very moment.

We stayed in Cape Coast in a place called Hans Cottage Botel, which was like a hotel with a restaurant in a swamp type thing and alligators roaming free on the premises. The room was ok, but they decided to cut the AC at midnight so you would wake up sweaty and grumpy. The crocs were pretty cool though.
The next day we went to Kakum National Park and did the canopy walk, 40m in the air on little flimsy bridge between trees in the rainforest. It was awesome!!! The same day we went and saw a stingless bee operation and research center and actually tasted the honey right from the hive! We then went to see a monkey rehabilitation type place where a lady would take in animals that were going to be killed to eat and the likes.

The next day we headed to Ankasa Exploration Base, which is nearly on the border with Cote d'Ivoire in the heart of the rainforest. It was intense there with huge bugs and humidity like you wouldn't believe. My paper was disentegrating while there because nothing would dry. Ever. We spent a couple days setting up traps and doing night walks trying to find interesting things, and boy did we ever. If this internet connection didn't take nearly 30mins to connect to this site I would upload some pictures of the giant millipedes and spiders we saw. During a trek I also saw a monkey in the trees! He seemed agitated by us and took off pretty quickly but it was definately a cool experience to see a monkey in the rainforest in its natural habitat. The setting up of mosquito nets was aggravating and sleeping was tough at first, but became lovely after the first night. Because the little bunkers we stayed in were nearly nonexistent and were practically not enclosed, we heard the sounds of the rainforest all night, which was beautiful and I have never felt as hypnotized as I had there. There is so much description I wish to share, but so little time. We stayed in Ankasa for 3 nights and 3 days and yesterday we travelled up to Kumasi, the heart of the Ashanti kingdom. We got in late last night so didn't see much except the horrible roads! My goodness I will never complain about the lack of maintenance on Calgary streets ever again! We were flying at a rate of nearly 100km/hr and swerving around potholes (as was everyone else on the road). The potholes were often bigger than the remaining road itself, so a 4 hour trip took us nearly 8 hours. Today we are going to a market and to the Ashanti museum which will be supr interesting, but I am not feeling too great so we will see how that goes.
Nearly everyone in our group has been ill thus far, and I just got hit with it the night before last. I have also been eaten nearly alive by insects and am itching nonstop. All in all I love it and am excited for what is to come.
We are heading tomorrow to Mole National Park for a couple of days and then off to the Wechiau hippo sanctuary for about 5 days, where we will be designing and conducting our own research experiment. Should be interesting except it is apparently like 45 degrees there, and is a lot drier as it is in the far North of the country.

I have learnt so much already, and have been testing myself everyday. I have never been one for group travel and the like, but I am doing my best to make it work. Nobody is fighting yet so that is good... the irritations are flaring a little but nothing serious. I am also trying to get over my fear of insects, particularly in Ankasa - I ended up sharing my bucket shower with 3 large suckers that provided a coordinated attack on me from all corners.


Life is so different here, and in so many ways it is better. I honestly think all people could learn serious lessons from others that live so differently it is sometimes uncomfortable.... I am pretty sure my blood pressure is down as the Ghanaian way is to sit and chill and not worry about things, so I am trying my best to leave my uppity type A personality in the room at the start of the day.

I have been trying to get up early and just sit and observe whats going on around me; in Ankasa I would be up by 6, have my bucket shower and dress, and sit on the deck for an hour or so, just listening to the noises and things going on around me. I can't believe we are destroying a place as magical as the rainforest at such a rapid rate.... it is making me sick to think that my children may never get the opportunity to see such a place.

In Ankasa we got to observe the rainforest rains.... and wow were they rains. I bet it was Calgary's annual rainfall twice fold in a mere 4 hour period. I took a little video on my camera but it was amazing. I thought the roads would be out, seeing as they really are little dirt paths.

The food here is good.... the portions are huge though and I can never even finish half and I feel horrible. They think Westerners eat so much so they give so much but it is enormous. At most places you have a selection of things on the menu, at other they give you a huge menu with 50+ things on it then tell you there is only rice, beans, chicken and fish. Why the menu I don't understand. I have been sweating so much it is ridiculous. It will be interesting to see how much (if any) weight I have sweated off so far in a little over a week.

We have gotten to see the ocean a few times, which I loved. We couldn't swim because the rip tide is too fierce in the places we were, but we all ran and put our feet in. We had lunch on the beach a couple times and it was awesome.

I am a little tired as I have been a little ill the last couple days and not sleeping well, but I am still my eager self and am sure I will be back up to perfect health in a few days. I hope by the time we get to Wechiau as there is not any AC there and in most places we have been there has been so to sleep has been ok.

I have some laundry being done today as my goodness the rainforest sure stinks your stuff up. There is this weird smell that is ingrained into my clothes, but it will be fine.

I am pretty much rambling now with not much more to say, so I will sign off as it will probably take 10 minutes for this to save and load anyways... the internet connection down here is terrible! I am still trying to figure out my phone and buy some more credit so I will call when I get the chance.

I hope all is well with everyone and the weather is good at home.

talk to you all again soon (I hope) but I have no idea when my internet opportunity will again arise.


Love you all!

Krystle

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

I have arrived :)

so it's offical... I have arrived and am in love.

We got in about 7 last evening and the first thing I realized was the horrendous traffic... it took soooo long justto get through a traffic circle! It's quite funny actually there are traffic lights but non of them work and no stop signs so its no wonder people do whatever they want on the road haha.

The hotel "lost" our reservations last night, so we had arrived and it was pitch dark just to find out there was nowhere for us to stay, but we ended up finding a place thatis really nice and has moderate air conditioning (i.e. you will not die) so I am not complaining.

The flights went well and everything so far has worked out, but the pace of life is amazing in comparison. Everybody here gets places when they do and there are no clocks anywhere! If someone tells you they will get you in a half hour who knows how long that will be.

We just came from the National Museum, which was pretty cool, and had a buffet with traditional style food, and I got into some super spicy stuff that nearly burnt my tounge off haha.

Beer costs as much as water down here so we have kind of been on a roll, and decided at the Frankfurt airport at 7 in the morning that a couple of bottle of wine between two other girls and myself was a good idea.... needless to say today I am not drinking and am avoiding alcohol.

Its fairly hot here, probably around 30 degrees or so and super humid but I love it. My skin is happy with the moisture and so far all the food and excitement has been sitting well with my stomach so I am happy!!


Anyways we are at an internet cafe quickly and it is super busy in here (also called Busy internet Cafe haha) and super slow, so it will take the remainder of my time to save this post so I should be going. I am unsure of my next internet opportunity, probably not for at least another week.

Anyways I hope to have some great stories for next time I post!


Krystle
xxx

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Departure in T minus 1 day

So, here I am sitting at home looking at my luggage (all packed!) and my mind is beginning to wander to how the next few months will be. I am super excited and thrilled to be leaving tomorrow for Ghana, but I am not looking forward to the flight, or trying to carry all my luggage. There is so much I honestly don't want to think about it.
I have finished one of the assignments I need to do (final edit tomorrow morning) and I figure I will do the other one on the plane... I will be in the air for so long, might as well do something worthwhile.

I can't wait to get to Ghana and be embraced by the sights, smells, and strange looks from people when I decide to wander on my own. I watched a commercial today and it said something along the lines of how its funny that in places where nobody knows you and you know nobody that you can really be yourself. I am a little apprehensive as I don't know what to expect, but other than that I feel like I am ready to take this new journey head on.

I still have plenty to do before my flight tomorrow, so I will try to write once I arrive in Accra on Tuesday.



Krystle
xxx

Friday, May 15, 2009

Prep week complete!

So "Prep Week" at the University is officially over. I have a million and four things left to do before I leave Monday, and things left to buy and everything that I should have done weeks ago. Stress stress stress. Oh well.

I need to get my rush rush behavior out of the way, because I am going back on Africa time. I need to leave my crazy hectic pace behind and pick up the laid back attitude of every Ghanaian I have ever met.

This weekend is going to be crazy...project....laundry....project....pack.....project....shopping.....project.....see family (?).....pack
the whirlwind that is last minute.

I really have nothing new to say, just that my departure is two and a half days away, and it still doesn't feel real.


Anyways, time to get started on my list.




Krystle

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Most of you know I am heading to Ghana in West Africa on Monday May 18 with the biological sciences group at the University of Calgary. For a month we will be doing biodiversity and conservation projects in various areas of the country. This ends on June 14. On June 15 I am starting a volunteer placement with a maternity clinic to do HIV/AIDS counselling/support/awareness. I am very excited about this, and for the general helping out in the clinic that will be going on. I will do this for about another month. I return home at the end of July, although it will probably be hard to leave... judging from my horrible detachment from South Africa last year I will have a hard time coming home.

After reading my friend Marcia's blogs about Cote d'Ivoire I decided to follow in her footsteps and create a blog while I am gone. Eveytime I have internet access (which won't be often by the sounds of it) I will update my "blog" and try to add pictures and the like.

I will send Emails only in special circumstances and if they are important and/or personal as I don't want to be spending a huge chunk of time writing various emails to everyone, most of the time saying the same things.


I can't wait to get to Ghana and get immersed in the culture... we watched a video today of dancing and celebrations and some weaving of traditional outfits (of which I want to get my hands on) and some other interesting things, and I can't wait.

Well I have an assignment to finish in preparation for the trip, and a cold to beat before I leave, so I should get to it. I will try to update this a few more times before I leave, but after that check back weekly for updates. I probably won't be diving with great white sharks or bungee jumping off a 200m bridge this time, but who knows something just as exciting might pop up!!

:)


Krystle